Saturday, August 7, 2010

Bhutan Fights the World for Its Buddhism

Impressively, Bhutan, a devoutly Buddhist country, is determined to preserve its traditional way of life in the face of globalisation.

The surprises began the moment my friend and I landed in Bhutan’s Paro airport.

The fresh, soothing air lifted my spirits. I felt light-hearted. Whisked through immigration by a government official dressed in traditional gho, we were in the backseat of a Hyundai 4WD within minutes and on our way to the capital, Thimphu.

As the vehicle wound its way through the mountain passes, past lush valleys, streams and terraces planted with rice, barley, potatoes, mustard, chillies and vegetables, I felt relaxed.The blue skies and natural greens exuded a calming and soothing effect. The brown made me feel warm and grounded. The furry threads of parasitical plants blowing in the wind and clinging to the pine trees, forming a mesh web, reminded me of the interdependence between man and nature and how our sanity could be destroyed by clinging to samsara’s (earthly life) delights.

A snow-capped peak loomed in the horizon, and we saw a family of very rare vultures, the Himalayan Griffons, appear out of nowhere to feast on the carcass of a horse — a stark reminder of life’s impermanence.

Bhutan, a small independent Buddhist kingdom about the size of Switzerland, sits on the roof of the world. It has a population of around 670,000 who mainly live in remote villages inland. The government adopts a policy of high-value and low-volume tourism to safeguard the country’s environment and way of life.

Visitors have to pay a minimum tariff of US$200 (RM632) per day to cover meals, accommodation, guide and travel.

Shambala — pure land

As I travelled though this land of deep contrasts, I felt myself going back in time to the legendary kingdom of Shambala — a pure land ruled by benevolent Buddhist kings. I was captivated by the majestic dzong or fortresses, which are stunning examples of Bhutanese architecture.

Numerous monasteries, stupa and temples built centuries ago dot the landscape, inspiring and titillating the imagination of the spiritual seeker. The prayer flags fluttering in the wind on trees, stupa and many a roof-top sent forth messages of hope and peace.

One of Bhutan’s national treasures, which is also a World Heritage Site, is the famous Taktsang Monastery or Tiger’s Nest. This Buddhist monastery is perched precariously on the sheer craggy cliff of a copper-coloured mountain 900m above the Paro valley. The hermitages built into the cliff faces here provide shelter for meditation practitioners who come to contemplate life’s meaning on top of the world.

Taktsang blew my mind when I finally got there after an arduous three-hour climb on foot and horseback. The cooling sprays of a breathtaking waterfall cascading down the hidden mountainside welcomed me to the tiger’s lair.

What an awesome sight to behold!

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